The story of Ascension Island
Ascension Island is the tip of a volcano rising from the Mid-Atlantic Ridge, roughly midway between Africa and South America, and it had no native human population at all. Portuguese navigators sighted it in the early 1500s, and it takes its name from being spotted on Ascension Day. For three centuries passing ships stopped only to collect turtles and seabird eggs, and the barren cinder landscape was thought too dry to settle.
That changed in 1815, when Napoleon was exiled to St Helena, some 1,300 kilometres to the south-east. Britain placed a small naval garrison on Ascension so it could not be used in a rescue attempt, and the Royal Navy famously ran the island as if it were a ship, the 'stone frigate' HMS Ascension. Charles Darwin called in 1836, and later in the 19th century, with advice from botanist Joseph Hooker, plants were brought in from around the world to green the summit of Green Mountain - one of the earliest deliberately created cloud forests.
Read the full history
From 1899 the island became a hub for undersea telegraph cables, and in 1922 it was attached to St Helena as a dependency. During the Second World War American engineers blasted Wideawake Airfield out of the lava, and the island later hosted tracking and communications stations for space programmes and broadcasters. In 1982 it served as a vital staging post during the Falklands conflict. Today it is part of the British Overseas Territory of St Helena, Ascension and Tristan da Cunha, with residents who live there on work contracts rather than as permanent settlers.
For the rare visitor, Ascension offers something truly unusual: a raw volcanic moonscape, a man-made cloud forest, beaches where green turtles haul ashore by night, and seas teeming with fish within a vast marine protected area. Old naval buildings, forts and the quirky 'letterbox' hiking tradition give it a heritage all of its own.
Timeline
- 1501-1503Portuguese sailors sight the uninhabited island and name it for Ascension Day
- 1815A British naval garrison arrives while Napoleon is exiled on St Helena
- 1836Charles Darwin visits aboard HMS Beagle
- 1899The island becomes a relay station for transatlantic telegraph cables
- 1922Ascension is made a dependency of St Helena
- 1942US forces build Wideawake Airfield
- 1982The island serves as a key staging base during the Falklands conflict
- 2019Most of its waters are declared a large marine protected area
Entry rules depend on your passport and change often.
Before you book, check the official rules for your passport:
- IATA Travel Centre – passport, visa & health rules ↗
- U.S. passport holders – State Department country pages ↗
- UK passport holders – GOV.UK travel advice ↗
The latest visa and entry news for Ascension Island appears below as soon as publishers report it.
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Things to do in Ascension Island
- Watch green turtles nestJoin a night-time walk on Long Beach to see huge green turtles dig nests in the sand during nesting season.
- Climb Green MountainHike up through bamboo, ferns and misty forest to the dew pond at the summit of this planted cloud forest.
- Hunt for letterboxesFollow the island's walking trails to find hidden letterbox stamps tucked away at remote viewpoints.
- Snorkel with sea lifeSlip into calm coves to spot black triggerfish, moray eels and other marine life in clear Atlantic water.
- Go deep-sea fishingHead offshore on a charter for tuna, wahoo and marlin in some of the Atlantic's richest fishing waters.
- Explore Georgetown's historyWander past old naval stores, Fort Hayes and the small museum telling the island's garrison story.
- See the seabird coloniesLook out to Boatswain Bird Island, a guano-white stack crowded with boobies, noddies and tropicbirds.
- Swim at Comfortless CoveTake a dip at one of the island's few sheltered bathing spots, ringed by black lava.
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Where to go in Ascension Island
- GeorgetownWest coast · capitalThe tiny main settlement with historic naval buildings, a fort, a museum and the island's few shops.
- Green MountainIsland centre · cloud forestA lush, misty peak transformed from bare cinder by 19th-century planting, with trails and sweeping views.
- Long BeachNear Georgetown · turtlesThe island's main turtle nesting beach, best visited on a guided night walk.
- 📍Comfortless CoveNorth-west · swimmingA sheltered cove with an old cemetery nearby, popular for swimming and snorkelling.
- 📍Boatswain Bird IslandEast coast · seabirdsA sheer offshore stack that is a protected seabird sanctuary, viewed from the coast or by boat.
- 📍English BayNorth coast · beachA sandy bay with calm conditions on good days, used for picnics and swimming.
- Watch green turtles nest or hatch at night
- Hike to the Dew Pond on Green Mountain
- Go sport fishing in the open Atlantic
- Hunt for the island's walking-trail letterboxes
- Fresh tuna – line-caught in local waters
- Wahoo – grilled local game fish
- Fish cakes – a favourite across the South Atlantic islands
- Sunday roast – classic British pub meal
Best time to visit Ascension Island
Ascension has a tropical oceanic climate cooled by the south-east trade winds, with warm, mostly dry weather at sea level. Green Mountain is markedly cooler, cloudier and damper than the coast.
Typical daytime highs and rain in Georgetown (approximate averages).
- May or JuneAscension DayA public holiday marking the feast day after which the island was named.
- JuneKing's BirthdayObserved as a public holiday with community events, as across British territories.
- NovemberRemembrance SundayA service of remembrance reflecting the island's long military and naval history.
- December-JanuaryChristmas and New YearThe small community comes together for festive gatherings and celebrations.
How many days in Ascension Island?
Day 1 explore Georgetown and Fort Hayes. Day 2 climb Green Mountain to the dew pond. Days 3-5 mix snorkelling at Comfortless Cove, a turtle night walk on Long Beach and a coastal drive to view Boatswain Bird Island.
Spend the first days on the main sights and Green Mountain, then use the rest of your stay to tick off letterbox walks across the lava fields. Add a deep-sea fishing or boat trip, several turtle walks and lazy afternoons at English Bay.
Backpacker budget: about $100–150 a day
- Ascension is not a budget destination: access is limited and all visits must be arranged and approved in advance, so plan well ahead.
- Accommodation is scarce, so book your stay at the same time as your transport.
- Hiring a car is the practical way to get around, as there is no regular public transport.
- Bring essentials such as medication, sunscreen and snorkel gear, as shop supplies are limited and depend on shipments.
- Pick up a letterbox walks guide locally - it is the best free way to explore the island's remote corners.
Stay safe
- Crime is very low, but the sun is fierce - use strong sunscreen and carry plenty of water on hikes.
- Swim only in sheltered spots; rollers and strong currents make many beaches dangerous.
- Keep your distance from nesting turtles and follow guides' rules on lights and noise at night.
- Medical facilities are basic, so comprehensive travel insurance including evacuation is essential.
Money
- The island uses the St Helena pound, held at par with the British pound sterling, which is also accepted.
- Card acceptance and cash access are limited, so check payment options before arrival and bring sufficient funds.
- Tipping is not expected but appreciated for good service or guided trips.
Emergency: 999 all services
Access is limited to infrequent flights into Wideawake Airfield and occasional ship calls, and all visitors need prior permission from the island's government. Check the latest transport arrangements well in advance.
✈️ Cheap flights to Ascension Island: airports, flight times & best time to fly →
- Ascension has no indigenous population and no right of permanent residence - everyone living there is on a work contract or a dependant.
- The Royal Navy once administered the island as a ship, HMS Ascension.
- Green Mountain's forest was deliberately planted in the 1800s, making it a rare man-made cloud forest.
- Green turtles that nest on Ascension swim all the way from feeding grounds off the coast of Brazil.
- The island's runway was long enough to serve as an emergency landing site for the US Space Shuttle.
Ascension Island travel questions
Is Ascension Island safe for tourists?
Yes, crime is very low and the community is small and friendly. The main hazards are strong sun, rough seas and limited medical care, so travel insurance with evacuation cover is a must.
Can tourists visit Ascension Island?
Yes, but all visits need prior approval from the Ascension Island Government. Check its official website or contact the administration well before you travel.
When is the best time to visit Ascension Island?
January to May is ideal for turtle nesting and calm seas, though the weather is warm and mostly dry all year.
How many days do you need on Ascension Island?
Transport schedules usually decide the length of your stay. A week is enough to see the main sights, with extra days for fishing and letterbox walks.
What currency is used on Ascension Island?
The St Helena pound, at par with the British pound, which is also accepted. Bring sufficient funds, as banking services are limited.
Approximate daily cost per person (stay, food, local transport).
Access is limited to a few flights, so plans need to be made well ahead. On the island, visitors hire a car or join local guides.
- Keep lights off and distance from nesting turtles
- Stay on marked paths to protect wildlife
- Respect military and restricted areas
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